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Tonkabohnen und aufgebrochene Hülsen neben Weizen auf Leinen im warmen Abendlicht

Fragrance note

Tonka Perfumes

A tonka perfume is a fragrance in which the tonka bean sets the tone in the heart or base – warm, creamy and with a hint of hay, almond and vanilla. The key player is coumarin, a molecule first extracted from this very bean in 1820.

More about Tonka Perfumes

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60 products

Tabac Nomade von Houbigant Paris, 100 ml, Flakon
Tabac Nomade, Houbigant Paris Collection Orientale Sale price€200,00 (€2.000,00/L)
Blue Suede Shoes von Roberto Ugolini, 100 ml, Flakon
Blue Suede Shoes, Roberto Ugolini Sale priceFrom €7,00 (€3.500,00/L)
Kitten Heel von Roberto Ugolini, 100 ml, Flakon
Kitten Heel, Roberto Ugolini Sale priceFrom €7,00 (€3.500,00/L)
Cuir Infrarouge von Maison Crivelli, 100 ml, Flakon
Cuir Infrarouge, Extrait de Parfum, Maison Crivelli Sale priceFrom €200,00 (€4.000,00/L)
Marrakech von The Nose Behind, 100 ml, Flakon
Marrakech, The Nose Behind Sale price€175,00 (€1.750,00/L)
Papyrus Moléculaire von Maison Crivelli, 100 ml, Flakon
Papyrus Moléculaire, EdP, Maison Crivelli Sale priceFrom €90,00 (€3.000,00/L)
Caramelo Vanilla von New Notes, Flakon
Caramelo Vanilla, New Notes, Black Collection Sale price€160,00 (€3.200,00/L)
Latte di Cherry von New Notes, 100 ml, Flakon
Latte di Cherry, New Notes Sale priceFrom €160,00 (€3.200,00/L)
Will Be Love von Epico Parfum, 100 ml, Flakon
Will Be Love, Epico Parfum Sale price€160,00 (€1.600,00/L)
Velvet Tonka von BDK Parfums, 100 ml, Flakon
Velvet Tonka, BDK Parfums, Collection Matières Sale priceFrom €48,00 (€4.800,00/L)
Runzelige Tonkabohnen mit Hülsenhälften, Weizen und Leinen im Abendlicht

Knowledge

Coumarin: the molecule from the tonka bean

The tonka bean is the seed of Dipteryx odorata, a tree native to northern South America; the main producers are Venezuela, Brazil and Colombia. The dried seeds usually contain one to three per cent coumarin (C₉H₆O₂), and rarely up to ten. The name goes back to “kumarú”, the Tupi word for the tonka tree. William Henry Perkin first synthesised coumarin in 1868, and in 1882 it became the key ingredient of Fougère Royale by Houbigant – the fragrance that gave the fougère family its name.

In a fragrance, tonka feels soft, sweet and spicy, with a hint of freshly cut hay. It rounds off vanilla, caramel and praline, lends warmth to leather and tobacco and makes woods velvety. It is at its finest in autumn and winter, and on evenings when a scent should stay close to the skin.

How the note behaves

Gourmand

With vanilla, caramel or praline. Soft, sweet and comforting.

Ambery & spicy

With amber, saffron, cinnamon or tobacco. Warm and deep, for cold evenings.

Woody & leathery

With sandalwood, vetiver or leather. Dry and elegant, with velvety warmth.

Curious factWhen A. Vogel of Munich isolated coumarin from the tonka bean in 1820, he first mistook it for benzoic acid. That same year, the Frenchman Guibourt realised it was a substance of its own – and named it “coumarine”.

Knowledge to share

Myth or truth?

1 / 3

Statement 1

Tonka and vanilla come from the same plant.

MYTH

Myth. Vanilla comes from an orchid, the tonka bean from the South American tree Dipteryx odorata.

Statement 2

Fougère fragrances smell of ferns.

MYTH

Myth. Ferns barely smell. The family goes back to Fougère Royale of 1882, built around coumarin from the tonka bean.

Statement 3

In the USA, coumarin may not be added to food.

TRUTH

True. The US Food and Drug Administration has prohibited its direct addition since 1954.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between tonka and vanilla?

Vanilla comes from an orchid and is defined by the molecule vanillin; the tonka bean comes from a South American tree and is defined above all by coumarin. Tonka therefore feels a little drier, with notes of hay, almond and spice. Together, the two create a particularly rounded warmth.

Is tonka in perfume natural or synthetic?

Both are used: extracts from the bean, or coumarin, which has also been produced synthetically since 1868. Many compositions combine the two – what matters is the perfumer’s signature.

When should I wear a tonka fragrance?

It is at its best in autumn and winter, in the evening or whenever a scent should feel comforting. Paired with citrus or lavender, tonka also works lightly by day. It is best to test it on your own skin: with every bottle from 30 ml, we include a 2 ml sample of the same fragrance.

2 ml samplewith every bottle from 30 ml

Free shippingto Austria and Germany from €200

Boutique Bregenzevery fragrance to try