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Iris (Iris pallida) – Duftnote, Studiobild auf Leinen, Bild generiert

INGREDIENT GLOSSARY

Iris

Iris pallida · Iris germanica · Iris family (Iridaceae)

Powdery, cool and elegant, with a hint of violet and earth.

NATURALFLORAL-POWDERY

DISCOVER FRAGRANCESTO THE GLOSSARY

AT A GLANCE

  • The rhizome of an iris – not the flower
  • Scent: powdery, cool, with a touch of violet
  • Scent carriers: the irones, formed over years of storage
  • From 1 tonne of dried roots: 1 to 2 kg of orris butter

PROFILE

Origin
Tuscany around Florence (Iris pallida) · Morocco and China (Iris germanica)
Extraction
Steam distillation of rhizomes aged for several years
Main molecules
α-Irone (C₁₄H₂₂O) · γ-Irone (C₁₄H₂₂O)
Harvest
Harvested after two to three years in the field.
Often paired with
Vanilla, bergamot, jasmine, sandalwood, violet, ambergris accord, lime

Numbers that surprise

  • over 1,000 days

    is how long iris roots often rest in storage before becoming orris butter.

  • 0.5 to 1 kg

    of dried roots is needed for a single gram of orris butter.

Rounded values; calculation based on published data.

Harvest and season

Harvested after two to three years in the field. Several more years then pass before the rhizomes become orris butter.

After two to three years in the field, the rhizomes are dug up, peeled and dried. They are then stored for several years – only during this time do the fragrant irones form through slow oxidation. Finally they are ground and steam-distilled. The yield is just 0.1 to 0.2 %: one tonne of dried roots gives 1 to 2 kg of orris butter.

Knowledge to share

Myth or truth?

1 / 3

Statement 1

The iris scent in perfume comes from the flower.

MYTH

Myth. It comes from the rhizome – which has to mature for several years before it develops its scent.

Statement 2

Iris and violet are chemical relatives.

TRUTH

True. The irones in iris are close relatives of the ionones that give violets their scent – hence the delicate violet nuance.

Statement 3

Freshly harvested iris roots already smell of iris.

MYTH

Myth. Fresh roots barely smell at all – the irones only form during the long storage.

INGREDIENT GLOSSARY

Fragrances with Iris

Amour Brut von Len Histoire Privée, Flakon
Amour Brut, Len Exclusif Sale price€240,00 (€4.800,00/L)
XXI Art Deco von Clive Christian, 50 ml, Flakon
Vibrato von Sospiro, 100 ml, Flakon
Vibrato, Sospiro, The Classic Collection Sale price€276,00 (€2.760,00/L)
Meant To Be Seen von Nishane, Flakon
Meant To Be Seen, Nishane Sale price€245,00 (€4.900,00/L)
Dubai Turath von The Spirit of Dubai, Flakon
Dubai Turath, The Spirit of Dubai, 1st Generation Sale price€255,00 (€5.100,00/L)
Purple Accento Xerjoff Blank Page Edition von Xerjoff, Flakon
Purple Accento Xerjoff Blank Page Edition Sale price€280,00 (€2.800,00/L)
Vanille Leather von BDK Parfums, 100 ml, Flakon
Vanille Leather, BDK Parfums, Collection Exclusive Sale price€225,00 (€2.250,00/L)
Santal Calling von Ex Nihilo, 100 ml, Flakon
Santal Calling, Ex Nihilo, Collection Initiale Sale priceFrom €195,00 (€3.900,00/L)
Gris Charnel Extrait von BDK Parfums, 100 ml, Flakon
Hundred Silent Ways von Nishane, 100 ml, Flakon
Hundred Silent Ways, Nishane Rumi Collection Sale priceFrom €225,00 (€4.500,00/L)
Gris Charnel von BDK Parfums, 100 ml, Flakon
Gris Charnel, BDK Parfums, Collection Parisienne Sale priceFrom €48,00 (€4.800,00/L)
Isola Snow von Roja Parfums, Flakon
Isola Snow, Roja Parfums Sale price€465,00 (€9.300,00/L)

ALL FRAGRANCES WITH IRIS

Questions and answers

What does it smell like?

Powdery, cool and elegant, with a hint of violet and earth.