
INGREDIENT GLOSSARY
Iris
Iris pallida · Iris germanica · Iris family (Iridaceae)
Powdery, cool and elegant, with a hint of violet and earth.
NATURALFLORAL-POWDERY
AT A GLANCE
- The rhizome of an iris – not the flower
- Scent: powdery, cool, with a touch of violet
- Scent carriers: the irones, formed over years of storage
- From 1 tonne of dried roots: 1 to 2 kg of orris butter
PROFILE
- Origin
- Tuscany around Florence (Iris pallida) · Morocco and China (Iris germanica)
- Extraction
- Steam distillation of rhizomes aged for several years
- Main molecules
- α-Irone (C₁₄H₂₂O) · γ-Irone (C₁₄H₂₂O)
- Harvest
- Harvested after two to three years in the field.
- Often paired with
- Vanilla, bergamot, jasmine, sandalwood, violet, ambergris accord, lime
Numbers that surprise
over 1,000 days
is how long iris roots often rest in storage before becoming orris butter.
0.5 to 1 kg
of dried roots is needed for a single gram of orris butter.
Rounded values; calculation based on published data.
Harvest and season
Harvested after two to three years in the field. Several more years then pass before the rhizomes become orris butter.
After two to three years in the field, the rhizomes are dug up, peeled and dried. They are then stored for several years – only during this time do the fragrant irones form through slow oxidation. Finally they are ground and steam-distilled. The yield is just 0.1 to 0.2 %: one tonne of dried roots gives 1 to 2 kg of orris butter.
Knowledge to share
Myth or truth?
Statement 1
The iris scent in perfume comes from the flower.
Myth. It comes from the rhizome – which has to mature for several years before it develops its scent.
Statement 2
Iris and violet are chemical relatives.
True. The irones in iris are close relatives of the ionones that give violets their scent – hence the delicate violet nuance.
Statement 3
Freshly harvested iris roots already smell of iris.
Myth. Fresh roots barely smell at all – the irones only form during the long storage.
Your result
FRAGRANCES WITH IRISINGREDIENT GLOSSARY
Fragrances with Iris
Questions and answers
Powdery, cool and elegant, with a hint of violet and earth.
The iris scent does not come from the flower but from the rhizome of the iris plant. The finest quality traditionally comes from Iris pallida grown in Tuscany around Florence; Iris germanica is cultivated today mainly in Morocco and China.
After two to three years in the field, the rhizomes are dug up, peeled and dried. They are then stored for several years – only during this time do the fragrant irones form through slow oxidation. Finally they are ground and steam-distilled. The yield is just 0.1 to 0.2 %: one tonne of dried roots gives 1 to 2 kg of orris butter.
Iris lends a perfume a cool, powdery elegance – velvety like cosmetic powder, with a hint of violet and damp earth. In our range it sits at the heart of 148 out of 184 fragrances: it bridges flowers and woods and makes a scent feel calmer, more refined and more grown-up.
Floral-powdery, with an earthy, slightly woody depth.
Harvested after two to three years in the field. Several more years then pass before the rhizomes become orris butter.
In our fragrances, it often appears alongside Vanilla, bergamot, jasmine, sandalwood, violet, ambergris accord, lime.
Orris root is one of Europe's oldest fragrance materials: Pliny the Elder already wrote about the iris from Illyria on the Adriatic coast. Later Florence became the centre of iris cultivation – the stylised lily in the city's coat of arms is in fact considered an iris.
- One tonne of dried iris roots yields only around one to two kilograms of orris butter.
- The stylised “lily” in the coat of arms of Florence is in fact considered an iris.
- Orris butter gets its name from being solid at room temperature – just like real butter.
The roots are stored for several years before distillation – only during this time do the fragrant irones form.
FRAGRANCE KNOWLEDGE
In the 4D Journal
-
FRAGRANCE KNOWLEDGE
Rose in perfume: The queen of fragrance materials
READ ARTICLE
-
FRAGRANCE KNOWLEDGE
Vanilla in perfume: From orchid to favourite scent
READ ARTICLE
-
FRAGRANCE KNOWLEDGE
Leather in perfume: How does something smell that was never in the bottle?
READ ARTICLE
-
FRAGRANCE KNOWLEDGE
Scented candles & home fragrance: How to use them right
READ ARTICLE


































