Skip to content

Cart

Your cart is empty

Mandeln (Prunus dulcis) – Duftnote, Studiobild auf Leinen

INGREDIENT GLOSSARY

Almond

Prunus dulcis (syn. Prunus amygdalus) · Rose family (Rosaceae)

Bittersweet and marzipan-like, with a hint of cherry and warm pastry.

NATURAL & SYNTHETICGOURMAND · BITTERSWEET · TOP AND HEART NOTE

DISCOVER FRAGRANCESTO THE GLOSSARY

AT A GLANCE

  • Plant: almond tree Prunus dulcis, a stone-fruit tree of the rose family; the scent comes from the bitter almond (var. amara)
  • Origin: southwest Asia with Iran as centre of origin, today mainly California; bitter almond oil mostly from apricot kernels
  • Extraction: press cake of bitter kernels steeped in water, benzaldehyde distilled, hydrogen cyanide removed – mostly synthetic
  • Scent: bittersweet, marzipan-like, with a cherry and pastry facet – top and heart note

PROFILE

Origin
Originally southwest Asia, with Iran as the main centre of origin · grown today mainly in California · bitter almond oil for perfumery mostly from apricot kernels
Extraction
Bitter kernels are pressed, the press cake is steeped in water, the resulting benzaldehyde is steam-distilled and the hydrogen cyanide removed – though synthetic benzaldehyde is used far more often
Main molecules
Benzaldehyde (C₇H₆O, bitter-almond- and cherry-like, main constituent of bitter almond oil) · amygdalin (C₂₀H₂₇NO₁₁, the precursor in the bitter kernels) · hydrogen cyanide (HCN, forms alongside it and is removed for perfumery)
Harvest
The almond tree blossoms in early spring, often before its leaves appear; the fruit ripens into autumn.
Often paired with
Vanille, Sandelholz, Tonkabohne, Jasmin, Moschus, Kirsche, Bergamotte

Numbers that surprise

  • 33 to 54 grams

    of amygdalin are contained in one kilogram of bitter almonds – sweet almonds usually hold only a few milligrams, more than 200 times less.

  • 125 to 200 kilograms

    of bitter almonds are needed for a single kilogram of essential bitter almond oil – the kernels yield only around 0.5 to 0.8% volatile oil.

  • over 1 million

    honeybee colonies are brought to California's almond orchards every year for the February bloom, because most varieties depend on cross-pollination.

Rounded values; calculation based on published data.

Harvest and season

The almond tree blossoms in early spring, often before its leaves appear; the fruit ripens into autumn. As kernels and benzaldehyde store well or are produced synthetically, the almond scent is available all year round.

The typical scent is not yet present in the almond kernel itself. The bitter kernels are first pressed, releasing a mild, fatty oil. The remaining press cake is ground and steeped in water: now the kernel's own enzyme system, emulsin, splits amygdalin into sugar, hydrogen cyanide and benzaldehyde. Steam distillation then yields the essential bitter almond oil, which in its crude form contains several per cent of hydrogen cyanide. For perfumery and flavours the hydrogen cyanide is removed, leaving an oil of around 98 to over 99% benzaldehyde. Today the raw material is mostly apricot kernels, which share the same chemistry. Far more often than the natural oil, however, synthetic benzaldehyde is used.

Knowledge to share

Myth or truth?

1 / 3

Statement 1

The almond scent in perfume comes from almond oil, like the one you know from the kitchen.

MYTH

Myth. Pressed, fatty almond oil hardly smells. The almond scent comes from benzaldehyde, which only forms when enzymes in crushed bitter kernels split amygdalin – in perfume it is mostly synthetic.

Statement 2

Today, bitter almond oil often does not come from almonds at all.

TRUTH

True. It is mostly obtained from apricot kernels. They also contain amygdalin and, after distillation and removal of the hydrogen cyanide, yield an oil of around 98 to over 99% benzaldehyde.

Statement 3

Sweet almonds smell so mild because they almost completely lack amygdalin.

TRUTH

True. Measurements show 33 to 54 grams of amygdalin per kilogram in bitter almonds, but usually only milligrams in sweet ones. The reason is a single point mutation in the bHLH2 gene that switches off amygdalin formation – and with it the source of the intense benzaldehyde.

INGREDIENT GLOSSARY

Fragrances with Almond

Vanilla Cake von Montale, 100 ml, Flakon
Vanilla Cake, Montale Paris Sale price€110,00 (€1.100,00/L)
Chemin d'Amande Extrait von Une Nuit Nomade, 100 ml, Flakon
Chemin d'Amande Extrait, Une Nuit Nomade Sale priceFrom €90,00 (€3.600,00/L)
Starlight von Xerjoff, 50 ml, Flakon
Starlight, Xerjoff Spotlight Sale price€240,00 (€4.800,00/L)
Neighbour's Cherries von Olakala, 100 ml, Flakon
Neighbour's Cherries, Olakala Sale priceFrom €50,00 (€3.333,33/L)
High Frequency von Initio Parfums Privés, Flakon
High Frequency, Initio, Carnal Blends Collection Sale price€280,00 (€3.111,11/L)
Italica von Casamorati, 100 ml, Flakon
Italica, Casamorati Sale priceFrom €120,00 (€4.000,00/L)
Replica Flying von Maison Margiela, 100 ml, Flakon
Replica Flying, Maison Margiela Sale price€195,00 (€1.950,00/L)
Velvet Tonka von BDK Parfums, 100 ml, Flakon
Velvet Tonka, BDK Parfums, Collection Matières Sale priceFrom €48,00 (€4.800,00/L)
Tonka Sublime von Houbigant Paris, Flakon
Tonka Sublime, Houbigant Paris Collection Les Ambres Sale price€200,00 (€2.000,00/L)
Mallow Parfum von Sora Dora, 50 ml, Flakon
Mallow Parfum, Sora Dora, Collection Irreel Sale price€200,00 (€4.000,00/L)
Valaya Exclusif von Parfums de Marly, 75 ml, Flakon
Valaya Exclusif, Parfums de Marly Sale priceFrom €190,00 (€6.333,33/L)
Sapphire Blue von The House of Oud, Flakon
Sapphire Blue, THoO Royal Stone Collection Sale price€250,00 (€3.333,33/L)

ALL FRAGRANCES WITH ALMOND

Questions and answers

What does it smell like?

Bittersweet and marzipan-like, with a hint of cherry and warm pastry.