Benzoin Perfumes

Benzoic acid and vanillin: the molecules of benzoin

Benzoin is the resin of styrax trees from South-East Asia. The sweet, vanilla-like Siam benzoin (Styrax tonkinensis) comes mainly from Laos and Vietnam, the more austere Sumatra benzoin (Styrax benzoin) from Indonesia. The bark is cut, and the resin that seeps out hardens in the air into pale tears and lumps that are collected by hand. Instead of being distilled, it is extracted with solvents into a resinoid. Siam benzoin consists mainly of benzoic acid (C₇H₆O₂) and its esters such as coniferyl benzoate (C₁₇H₁₆O₄); it also contains natural vanillin (C₈H₈O₃), which gives the vanilla note.

In a fragrance, benzoin is like a warm blanket: sweet, balsamic, vanilla-like and slightly powdery. In the base it holds more volatile notes and rounds them off – and alongside labdanum and vanilla it is a cornerstone of the amber accord. With vanilla it feels creamy and sweet, with patchouli and sandalwood deep and woody, with bergamot surprisingly bright.

In this selection, benzoin is part of the fragrance pyramid – in our range it almost always sits in the base note.