Heliotrope Perfumes

Heliotropin and vanillin: the molecules in heliotrope

Heliotrope (Heliotropium arborescens) comes from South America, above all from Peru, and reached Europe in the 18th century. The name combines the Greek words helios, “sun”, and tropos, “turn” – after the old belief that the plant turns its flowers towards the sun. An oil from the flowers plays practically no role in trade; in perfumery the scent is recreated. The key molecule is heliotropin, chemically piperonal (C₈H₆O₃). It was first prepared in 1869 by the chemists Fittig and Mielck and has been used in perfume since the 1880s. It is made from safrole derivatives or from catechol. It is often complemented by vanillin (C₈H₈O₃), the principal aroma compound of vanilla.

In a fragrance, heliotrope is almondy, powdery and softly vanillic, with a hint of cherry. It feels gentle and enveloping rather than loud. With iris and violet it feels powdery and elegant, with vanilla or tonka warm and gourmand, with musk soft and close to the skin.

In this selection, heliotrope sits in the fragrance pyramid – mostly in the heart note.