Lily of the Valley Perfumes

Hydroxycitronellal and Mayol: the molecules in lily of the valley

In perfumery, lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) is known as a “mute flower”: neither distillation nor extraction yields a usable oil. Its scent is therefore reconstructed from aroma molecules. The key classic molecule is hydroxycitronellal (C₁₀H₂₀O₂), in use since the early 20th century and made from citronellal. It is one of the fragrance allergens that must be declared in the EU. Lilial (C₁₄H₂₀O) shaped the lily-of-the-valley tone from the 1950s; since 1 March 2022 it has been banned in EU cosmetics because it was classified as toxic for reproduction (CLP category 1B). Lyral (HICC), a strong contact allergen, has been off the EU market since August 2021. Today the accord is carried by molecules such as Mayol (C₁₀H₂₀O), a fresh, clean floral material, and the green-floral Florosa.

In a fragrance, lily of the valley is cool, green and clear, with a slightly watery, dewy sheen. With rose and jasmine it feels classic and floral, with violet and iris powdery and delicate, with musk and pale woods clean and long-lasting.

In this selection, lily of the valley sits in the fragrance pyramid – mostly in the heart note.