Mint Perfumes

Menthol and carvone: the molecules in mint

In perfumery, mint mainly means two plants: peppermint (Mentha × piperita), a natural hybrid of water mint and spearmint, and spearmint (Mentha spicata). Their essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the herb, harvested around flowering time; peppermint comes, among other places, from the US states of Oregon and Washington. The leading molecule of peppermint is menthol (C₁₀H₂₀O), alongside menthone. Spearmint, by contrast, is shaped by carvone (C₁₀H₁₄O) in its (R)-(−)-form, which makes up most of its oil. Menthol does more than smell: it activates the cold receptor TRPM8 – hence the cool impression, without the skin actually cooling down.

In a fragrance, peppermint is cold, clear and sharp, spearmint sweeter, softer and more herbal – closer to freshly crushed leaves. Mint opens a composition and fades quickly. With lime and bergamot it feels bright and zesty, with lavender or basil aromatic and green, with vanilla or tonka soft and round.

In this selection, mint sits in the fragrance pyramid – mostly in the top note.