Tobacco Memories or Extrait? What you smell – and when to wear which
A hotel room in São Paulo. Friends smoking non-stop, an Old Fashioned or two on the table, music far too loud and a night that refuses to end. That is how Nicolas Dewitte tells the story behind Tobacco Memories, the best-known fragrance of his Parisian house Chambre52. Since 2026 the same memory exists a second time: as Tobacco Memories Extrait. Is it simply the same night, only louder? No. It is more like the morning after, when the smoke has cleared and only your skin still smells of the evening.
- What does Tobacco Memories smell like? Sweet, smoky and sociable: dark cherry with saffron and a gin-like juniper kick, then soft tobacco with velvety iris, finishing with frankincense, oakmoss and vanilla.
- What does Tobacco Memories Extrait smell like? Darker, drier, closer to the skin: black cherry and saffron, then a dry, silky tobacco leaf with iris and an animalic warmth, carried by resinous labdanum.
- The most noticeable difference: the Eau de Parfum is the bar with friends, the Extrait is the cigar box and the leather armchair. Less smoke and vanilla, more resin and skin.
- When to wear which? Eau de Parfum for rooftop evenings, bars and everyday autumn. Extrait for dates, cold nights, evenings by the fire and anyone who would rather feel a fragrance than hear it.
Why this duo is so popular
Chambre52 has only existed since late 2024, yet Tobacco Memories has built a loyal following in record time. On Fragrantica, 395 people have already rated the Eau de Parfum. On Parfumo it is the house’s most-rated fragrance with 121 ratings, and after only a few months the Extrait sits at the top of the brand with 8.3 out of 10.
Add to that a trend: cherry is back – not as a sweet, but dark, boozy and paired with tobacco. With the Extrait, this pairing now comes in two temperatures.
“The Eau de Parfum tells the story of the night. The Extrait smells like the skin that lived it.”
Team 4D OUTFITTERS, BregenzWhat you smell: two versions of the same memory
Tobacco Memories (Eau de Parfum, 2024) is the sociable sibling. The cherry is juicy and dark, almost like the cherry in a cocktail glass; saffron gives it a warm, slightly leathery sheen, and juniper adds a fresh, gin-like kick. Then comes the tobacco, soft and intimate, cushioned by velvety, powdery iris. The base of frankincense, oakmoss and vanilla brings smoke and sweetness together. Dewitte calls the scent a small, rebellious souvenir of those nights. The Parisian perfumery Nose, on the other hand, sees a rooftop at dusk in it. Both fit.
Tobacco Memories Extrait (2026) does something surprising: it takes the smoke out. According to Chambre52, the focus is no longer on smoked tobacco but on the leaf itself, described as silky, dry and very delicate. Dewitte compares it to the woody scent that rises when you open a cigar box for the first time. Add a rare extraction called “Living Stallion”, which gives the fragrance a subtle animalic, skin-like note, and a base of labdanum with warm amber facets. The cherry stays, but it feels tarter. The result: less party, more closeness.
The word nicotine goes back to a diplomat. Jean Nicot, French ambassador in Lisbon, sent tobacco plants and seeds to the court in Paris in 1560, and Catherine de’ Medici received tobacco leaves for her migraines. Carl Linnaeus later named the plant genus after him: Nicotiana.
A journey through time on your skin: what you smell, and when
What does Tobacco Memories smell like after four hours? And what is left of the Extrait on your scarf the next morning? This is how Chambre52, the Parisian perfumery Nose and the Fragrantica community describe how the two versions develop:
Tobacco Memories (Eau de Parfum)
- The first few minutesDark, juicy cherry with saffron, plus the fresh juniper. Sweet, lively and instantly sociable. Some in the community find the cherry a little too syrupy at this stage.
- After 1 hourThe cherry softens and the tobacco moves forward, wrapped in powdery iris. The fragrance becomes calmer, cosier, more nostalgic.
- After 4 hoursFrankincense, oakmoss and vanilla take over: warm, slightly smoky, sweet. Users report very different longevity; for some, the scent already sits close to the skin by now.
- In the evening / on your scarf the next morningA soft trail of vanilla, frankincense and tobacco – more a memory of the bar than the bar itself.
Tobacco Memories Extrait
- The first few minutesBlack cherry and saffron, darker and tarter than in the Eau de Parfum. Fragrantica users describe the cherry as tart and deep rather than syrupy. No juniper kick.
- After 1 hourThe dry, silky tobacco leaf and the iris arrive. The brand compares it to opening a cigar box, joined by an animalic, skin-like warmth.
- After 4 hoursTobacco and labdanum: resinous, amber-warm, slightly leathery. The cherry remains present in the background, which is why critics find the scent rather linear.
- In the evening / on your scarf the next morningAccording to Chambre52, a long-lasting labdanum trail. On fabric, a warm hint of amber and tobacco remains, reminiscent of a leather armchair.
The notes compared
A look at the notes shows that Chambre52 has slimmed down and rebuilt the pyramid. New marks what the Eau de Parfum does not have.
| Tobacco Memories (2024) | Tobacco Memories Extrait (2026) | |
|---|---|---|
| Top notes | Saffron, juniper, dark cherry | Black cherry, saffron |
| Heart notes | Tobacco, iris | Tobacco leaf, iris, “Living Stallion” (animalic note) |
| Base notes | Frankincense, oakmoss, vanilla | Labdanum with amber facets |
| Perfumer | Domitille Michalon-Bertier | Domitille Michalon-Bertier |
| Feel | Sweet, smoky, sociable | Dark, resinous, intimate |
What this means: without juniper, frankincense and vanilla, the fresh kick, the smoke and part of the sweetness disappear; labdanum and the animalic facet take over. Some retailers list additional notes for the Extrait, such as almond, vanilla or tonka. We stick to the notes Chambre52 communicated at launch.
What do you get for your money?
The honest answer first: the Extrait is not an Eau de Parfum with more perfume oil, but its own reading of the same memory. If you love the sweet, smoky original, stay with it.
| Tobacco Memories | Tobacco Memories Extrait | |
|---|---|---|
| 52 ml | € 160 | € 260 |
| 100 ml | € 220 | not available |
| Best season | Late summer to spring | Autumn and winter |
| Typical moment | Bar, rooftop, dinner with friends | Date, fireside evening, late night |
Prices as listed in the 4D OUTFITTERS web shop, as of 14 October 2026. The prices shown are updated automatically from the shop.
Both fragrances come in the brand’s signature format: 52 instead of 50 millilitres, a nod to the hotel room where it all began. The Extrait is available in this size only; the Eau de Parfum also comes as a 100 ml bottle.
What do Fragrantica and Parfumo say?
Interestingly, the two big fragrance communities see the duo differently. On Fragrantica the Eau de Parfum is ahead, on Parfumo the Extrait. As of 14 October 2026.
Tobacco Memories Extrait
Fragrantica · 71 votes
4.14 / 5
Parfumo · 37 ratings
Chambre52’s highest-rated fragrance on Parfumo
Tobacco Memories (Eau de Parfum)
Fragrantica · 395 votes
4.29 / 5
Parfumo · 121 ratings
Chambre52’s most-rated fragrance on Parfumo
What the community says: for the Eau de Parfum, many praise the balance of cherry and tobacco and its warm, nostalgic character. Some find the cherry too syrupy, others find the tobacco too quiet, and longevity is experienced very differently. With the Extrait, many like that the cherry feels tarter and less sweet and that it lasts a long time. More critical voices find it linear because the cherry dominates from start to finish. Our tip: try both side by side on your skin, not on paper.
Sources: Fragrantica Tobacco Memories Extrait · Fragrantica Tobacco Memories · Parfumo Chambre52 (brand overview)
Your moment: when to wear which?
Monday at the office, late October
Eau de ParfumOne spray, and the cherry feels friendly rather than demanding. In an open-plan office, the Extrait would be too much closeness for too many people.
Rooftop or lake terrace at sunset
Eau de ParfumThis is exactly how Nose describes the scent: wisps of tobacco and cherry at warm dusk. The juniper keeps it airy even in late summer.
Late bar, an Old Fashioned
Eau de ParfumThis is the fragrance’s origin story. Smoke, sweetness and a hint of gin-like freshness suit friends, music and long conversations.
First date at a wine bistro
ExtraitClose to the skin, warm, slightly animalic. A scent you only notice when you get closer – and then don’t forget.
Ski hut and fireplace after the last run
ExtraitLabdanum and tobacco leaf against cold air and damp wool. The next morning, your scarf still smells of amber.
Wedding guest in autumn
Eau de ParfumSociable and sweet enough for the dance floor and photos without overwhelming the people at your table. Save the Extrait for the after-party.
The story of Chambre52
São Paulo, 2022. Nicolas Dewitte had spent around twenty years behind the scenes of the perfume world, working alongside some of the best-known perfumers of his generation. During a stay of several weeks at a hotel in São Paulo, he was given room 52. The intense Brazilian nights there became the starting point for a brand of his own, which he founded together with French film director Cédric Jimenez. The first six fragrances were launched in November 2024.
The house works on an unusual principle: it never starts with a formula, always with a story. Dewitte, who has always written novels and short stories, wrote six long texts about moments and encounters in hotel rooms over the past twenty years. Only then were they translated into fragrances, a process that took around two years.
Besides Tobacco Memories, the collection includes fragrances such as Cuir à Corps, Soleil Tonka, Contre ta Peau, Orencie and Bois Flotté. You will find all of them in our Chambre52 collection.
Curiosities from Room 52
What you probably didn’t know about Chambre52
- A brand named after a room number
Chambre52 simply means “Room 52”. That was the number of the hotel room in São Paulo where Nicolas Dewitte found the idea for the brand.
- The perfumer sleeps in the same room
Domitille Michalon-Bertier, the nose behind Tobacco Memories, travels to São Paulo regularly – and also stays in room 52. A coincidence that suits the brand perfectly.
- 52 millilitres instead of 50
The bottle deliberately holds two millilitres more than usual, as a tribute to the room. It is also refillable.
- A film shot through the bottle
Co-founder Cédric Jimenez is a feature film director by profession, known for “BAC Nord” among others. For Tobacco Memories he shot a film through the transparent bottle – exactly 52 seconds long, of course.
- The grandson of a bottle legend
The faceted bottle was designed by Jules Dinand, grandson of Pierre Dinand. His grandfather designed more than 1,000 perfume bottles, including Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium and Calvin Klein’s Obsession.
- The founder wears no perfume during the day
Because Dewitte smells raw materials all day, he goes without fragrance during the day. In the evening it is at least five sprays on neck and chest – and on the evening of his interview with the Dutch retailer RETREAT, it was to be Tobacco Memories.
- A world premiere in a perfumery
The Extrait was not presented at a trade fair but unveiled exclusively at the Parisian perfumery Nose for its worldwide launch.
- Extrait de Parfum is the highest common concentration. An extrait typically contains around 20 to 40 per cent perfume oil, an Eau de Parfum about 15 to 20 per cent. Chambre52 does not state exact figures.
- There is no cherry essential oil. The cherry impression is built as an accord, often with benzaldehyde, the molecule that also smells of bitter almond. That is why almond appears in some note lists for Tobacco Memories.
- Tobacco in perfumery usually comes from extracts of dried tobacco leaves. They don’t smell of cigarettes but of honey, hay and dried fruit – exactly the side the Extrait brings to the front.
- Labdanum was once combed out of goats’ beards. The resin of the rockrose stuck to the coats of grazing goats and sheep, and shepherds collected it from there. To this day it is a cornerstone of amber and chypre fragrances.
- Juniper gave gin its name. The French “genièvre” became “genever” in Dutch and “gin” in English. In the Eau de Parfum it provides the fresh kick; in the Extrait it is absent.
Frequently asked questions about Tobacco Memories and the Extrait
What is the difference between Tobacco Memories and Tobacco Memories Extrait?
Tobacco Memories is a sweet, smoky Eau de Parfum with saffron, juniper, cherry, tobacco, iris, frankincense, oakmoss and vanilla. The Extrait focuses on black cherry, saffron, tobacco leaf, iris, an animalic note and labdanum. It is less smoky and less sweet, but darker, more resinous and closer to the skin.
What does Tobacco Memories smell like after a few hours?
After about four hours, the Eau de Parfum is dominated by frankincense, oakmoss and vanilla with a trace of tobacco. The Extrait keeps tobacco and resinous labdanum with an amber-warm glow, with the cherry still in the background.
Is the Extrait simply a stronger version?
No. The Extrait has a higher concentration, but also a different note pyramid. Chambre52 describes it as an evolution of the same memory with more sensuality and without the smoky accords.
Is Tobacco Memories a men’s or women’s fragrance?
Both versions are unisex. Nicolas Dewitte describes the Extrait as a genderless fragrance for people who want to combine intensity with delicacy.
Can I try both first?
Yes. With every fragrance order from 4D OUTFITTERS you receive a sample of the fragrance you ordered, and you can request up to four more free samples in the order note. Or try both versions at our boutique in Bregenz.
Smell first, then fall in love
With every fragrance order you receive a sample of exactly the fragrance you ordered. On top of that, you can request up to four more free samples via the order note in your cart – for example the other version of Tobacco Memories for a direct comparison. Shipping is free from 200 euros, and every purchase earns you stars in the 4D Insider Club.
Even better, let’s smell them together: visit our boutique in Bregenz and try Tobacco Memories and Tobacco Memories Extrait side by side. You will find the whole brand in the Chambre52 collection. To learn how to combine Tobacco Memories with other fragrances, read our 20 tips on perfume layering.
Your team at 4D OUTFITTERS, Bregenz
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