Coriander Perfumes

Linalool and geranyl acetate: the molecules in coriander

For perfumery, the essential oil is obtained from the ripe, dried fruits of coriander (Coriandrum sativum), a member of the carrot family. The fruits, traded as seeds, are crushed only shortly before steam distillation so that volatile scent molecules are not lost. The oil is produced in Eastern Europe and India, among other places. The main constituent is linalool (C₁₀H₁₈O), mostly in its (S)-(+)-form, also called coriandrol, which smells sweet and floral. Geranyl acetate (C₁₂H₂₀O₂), with a fruity, rosy note, also shapes the oil; its share varies widely depending on origin. In the EU, linalool is one of the fragrance allergens that must be declared on the label.

In a fragrance, coriander is spicy and peppery, with a citrus-like freshness and a sweet, floral undertone. It links the opening of a composition with its heart. With bergamot and neroli it feels bright and fresh, with cardamom or cinnamon warm and spicy, with frankincense or benzoin resinous and ambery.

In this selection, coriander sits in the fragrance pyramid – above all in the top and heart notes.