Mandarin Perfumes

Limonene and a touch of anthranilate: the molecules of mandarin

The mandarin (Citrus reticulata) comes from southern China; particularly prized oil for perfumery comes from Italy, above all Sicily and Calabria. The oil sits in tiny glands in the peel and is cold-pressed without heat. Whether it turns out green, yellow or red depends solely on the time of harvest: early fruit gives a tart green oil, ripe fruit a sweeter, rounder one. Its main components are limonene (C₁₀H₁₆) and γ-terpinene (C₁₀H₁₆); the delicate, almost floral tone comes from a touch of methyl N-methylanthranilate (C₉H₁₁NO₂).

In a fragrance, mandarin is the sunny opening: juicy, sweet and softer than lemon or bergamot. It almost always sits in the top note. With bergamot and neroli it feels radiant and fresh, with jasmine and orange blossom bright and floral, with vanilla and patchouli warm and round.

In this selection, mandarin is part of the fragrance pyramid – usually the first impression you notice when you spray.