Ylang-Ylang Perfumes

Benzyl acetate and p-cresyl methyl ether: the molecules in ylang-ylang

Ylang-ylang comes from the tree Cananga odorata, a member of the custard-apple family originally native to South-East Asia. Today the Comoros, above all Anjouan, are the leading producer, followed by Madagascar and, on a small scale, Mayotte. The tree flowers all year round; the blossoms are picked by hand in the early morning and distilled the same day. Steam distillation can last up to 24 hours and is fractionated: the Extra oil comes from the first one to two hours, followed by grades I, II and III. Around 50 kg of flowers yield roughly 1 kg of oil in total. The first fractions are shaped by benzyl acetate (C₉H₁₀O₂), linalool and p-cresyl methyl ether (C₈H₁₀O). In the heavier fractions, sesquiterpenes such as β-caryophyllene gain weight, and germacrene D is also among the main constituents of the oil.

On the skin, ylang-ylang is sweet, creamy and richly floral, with a fullness reminiscent of custard and banana, a jasmine-like heart and a faintly rubbery undertone. Over time it becomes spicier and woodier. It has long been one of the classic building blocks of great floral fragrances. With bergamot, ylang-ylang feels bright and sunny; with jasmine or tuberose, opulent and narcotic; with sandalwood or patchouli, warm and creamy.

In this selection, ylang-ylang sits in the fragrance pyramid – usually in the heart note.